Pasta with a Parmesan Béchamel, Mushrooms, Sage, and Arugula

My parents were visiting last weekend. A very lovely time, we ate this feast. It reminded of many things, including my grandmother's tuna noodle casserole, morel hunting with my dad, and a terrific meal I ate with my mother last summer, at this place. That last rememory gave way to the arugula I piled onto this dish. Salt of the Earth had served us a mushroom pasta with so-spicy watercress. The contrast of the soil-like mushrooms and the mineraly greens is really wonderful.

Eaten with loved ones, this is even better.

1 pound pasta
2 tablespoons butter, divided
3 cups sliced crimini mushrooms
8 morels, hydrated in some warm water, then drained and chopped
4 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
10 fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon flour
1 cup milk
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

Boil the pasta until al dente.

Meanwhile, saute the mushrooms, shallots, garlic, sage, and a sprinkle of salt in 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat.

Once the mushrooms are tender (but before they begin to wither), remove the mixture from the pan and set aside. Return the pan to the heat, melt the other tablespoon of butter, then whisk in the flour (to make a roux). The flour will probably clump. That's ok. Cook it for a couple minutes, then whisk in the milk, continuing to whisk until the sauce begins to thicken. Turn off the heat at that point, melt in the parmesan, and return the mushroom mixture to the sauce.

Toss the pasta with the sauce. Top with handfuls of baby arugula.

Serves 6-8.

Spanish Hash

And I don't mean the thing the guys waving sunglasses were really selling.

Spanish in ingredients only. Spanish in paprika and olive oil. Spanish in homage.

1 pound potatoes
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1 bunch beet greens, chopped
1 spicy pepper (or to taste), chopped
1 tablespoon Spanish paprika
salt+pepper
olive oil

Slice the potatoes thinly. Saute everything over medium heat, in a good amount of the olive oil, until cooked through.

Ya está.

Serves 2-3.

Cannellini Bean Dip with Slices of French Radish on Toast

More in foods I hope will heal me!

This vegan bean dip is super quick to make. And versatile too - I've made it with arugula in place of parsley and I suspect it will take whatever herbs you want to throw at it. But the beans are so mild tasting that I favor the peppery arugula or parsley here.

1 can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1 small clove garlic, minced
a couple tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
juice of one small lemon
salt and pepper to taste

Crush the garlic into a paste. (I almost always do this when using garlic raw in sauces, so the flavor is evenly distributed).

Mash together the beans, garlic paste, parsley, and lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve on toast points (with radishes, if you like) or as a dip for crackers or crudité.

Makes enough to spread on about 10-12 small toasts.

Collard Greens Wonton Soup

I'm still in health pack mode, and the New York Times told me it was alright to chop up a bunch of leafy greens and jam them in some dumplings. So that's what I did. Then I cooked those dumplings in a hot broth with more vegetables. And was cured.

I make no claims for authenticity here, and the collards are a little strange at first. But I found I really liked their bitterness with the other ingredients and was happy with just how many of those big wrinkly leaves you can eat when you chop them up all tiny like. Health! (But here's another dumpling recipe that would sub into this soup just fine if you aren't keen on the greens.)

1 packed cup very finely chopped collard (or other) greens (These were one big bunch to start with; I used a food processor to chop the leaves super fine)
2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger
1 finely chopped red jalapeño or other spicy pepper
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro, leaves and stems
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 small onion, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
8 ounces seitan, finely chopped
1 tablespoon red or rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon low sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
50 or 60 round wonton wrappers

Combine all the ingredients (except the wrappers!) in a large mixing bowl. Spoon teaspoonfuls of the filling into wonton wrappers. Dip your finger in a little water and run it around the edge of the wrapper, then fold and seal. Check out this youtube video (also thanks to the NYT) for advice on wrapping.

Makes about 50 or 60 dumplings

about 1 quart low sodium vegetable broth
soy sauce to taste
other soup veggies, thinly sliced (I used about 5 leaves bok choy and 1 tiny bell pepper; scallions would be good here though I was out)
12-14 dumplings

Bring the broth to a boil. Once boiling, gently toss the dumplings, and any veggies you plan to include, into the soup. Boil until the dumplings rise to the top and look translucent and brain-like (wrinkled). Season the broth to taste with soy sauce, maybe a little hot sauce, and serve.

Serves 2 as dinner.

Shredded Beet Salad with Ginger, Cilantro, and Garlic

I've had a sinus infection. And haven't left my home for five days, save for one mandatory trip to the DMV - a very cruel twist of the knife.

When I saw the doctor last week, she suggested I eat lots of fruits and vegetables. But not just any kind. The really healthy kind. The banana, sadly, was used as an example for what kinds of fruits would be less useful to me. Sorry banana. She also suggested, per Ayurveda, that I avoid dairy until this thing blows over. Ayurveda believes dairy can spur more phlegm development. I know, too much... But all this to tell you I'm temporarily veganish and trying to pack on the health.

I'm taking medicine too, but if I'm healed, I'm not discounting the beets. They taste like health, and they taste good too. Here, raw with bright-bright ginger and cilantro, they are terrific.

2 medium beets (raw), peeled and shredded
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1 small clove garlic, minced
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
salt + freshly ground black pepper

Toss the beets with the cilantro in a medium mixing bowl. In a smaller bowl, whisk together the ginger, garlic, oil, vinegar, and mustard. Pour the dressing over the beet mixture. Toss to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serves 2-3.

[With thanks to NPR and Farmer John]

Chocolate-Almond Butter

I wanted to make nutella the other morning, but was pretty low--too low--on hazelnuts to even bother trying. And then, next to the hazelnuts, I noticed an as-yet unopened jar of almond butter. So, yeah, this was born and I couldn't be gladder.

It turned out exactly as I'd imagined. A mundane fulfillment of expectations that in being so exactly as expected became much more than mundane. Moredane, pals. Moredane.

1/2 cup unsweetened almond butter (get some of the oil in too)
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons agave nectar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract.

Place the almond butter and cocoa powder together in a food processor. Turn it on, stream in the agave nectar and vanilla extract, and process until a consistently colored butter forms.

Because almonds aren't the fattiest nut, this may be a little dry; add oil if you want a more buttery, less pasty spread.

Makes about 1/2 a cup.

P.S. Filling those crepes.
P.P.S Make those crepes.

Ricotta Leek Mashed Potatoes

Some dirt-coated potatoes showed up in our CSA last week and I greeted them like I've greeted return trips to my hometown since leaving at age 17: like, oh, yeah, this is distant but quite comfortable. (I'm still seriously suffering nostalgia; bear with me.)

But I mean, really, potatoes! It's great to be back. It had been a while.

This is very easy to make. So just make it. And feel comforted.

3 medium potatoes (about 1 or 1.5 pounds), chopped into 1 inch cubes
1 large leek, sliced in half lengthwise, then sliced crosswise into thin half-moons
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup ricotta
1/4 cup milk
salt + pepper
parsley for garnish

Boil the potatoes until tender.

Meanwhile, saute the leeks and garlic in the butter over medium-high heat until the leeks begin to brown. Remove them from the heat and set aside.

Once the potatoes are cooked, drain them and mash them with the ricotta, milk, salt, and pepper. Top with browned leeks and chopped fresh parsley. You could also mix the leeks in, of course.

Serves about 4.

Chick Pea Salad Sandwich

This vegan and soy protein-free salad is a nice twist on a classic. The chickpeas are kind of perfect here. Crunchy-ish and soft-ish, and welcoming of the other flavors.

I used peppers and leeks here since that's what my CSA sent me this week, but the salad would be just fine with a more traditional carrot/celery combination. The paprika is grounding and the lemon zest adds a high note. A delicious dialectic if I ever tasted one.

1/2 small bell pepper, finely chopped
1 small leak, finely chopped
2 tablespoons freshly chopped parsley
zest of half a lemon
1 (14 ounce) can chickpeas, drained, rinsed, and chopped
2-3 tablespoons veganaise
salt+pepper to taste
about a 1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika

Stir the ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Serve on toast as a sandwich, or on its own as a salad.

[adapted from]

Zucchini Lasanga Cupcakes

I recently attended a reception. You know the kind. Welcoming in essence, but uncomfortably sterile in practice. Kind of like vegetarian lasagna, which was served at the reception (natch). I sat down with a slice and heard someone say, "this lasagna is such a disappointment. I keep expecting to bite into delicious meat, but instead it's... zucchini." And although I didn't wish for "delicious meat," I had a pretty similar reaction. Biting into thick, slimy, flavorless hunks of zucchini is an experience I particularly loathe. But I've been getting tons of it from our CSA and trying to eat it all. So I made a goal: make a not disappointing zucchini lasagna. Make it good.

And though I was just joking with my husband that it should be neither seen nor heard, I must remind you that I really love zucchini. But only when it's drained of all that water and allowed to be great. And really, these lasagna 'cupcakes' are great, a significant departure from the gummy failure of my prior attempt. Yes, these are great. Light, bright, end-of-summery. (Though they do not hold together as cupcakes once out of their ramekins...)

12 lasagne noodles, pre-boiled, and torn into smaller pieces
2 leeks, chopped (white and light green parts only)
2 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 pounds zucchini and/or yellow squash, grated
1 large tomato, quartered and sliced
1/4 cup goat cheese
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

Grease 8 or so ramekins. 10? I don't remember now. I guess see what feels right as you're going along. You could also use a muffin tin for this.

Preheat your oven to 375° F.

Saute the leeks and garlic gently in the butter over medium-low heat until the leeks are softened. Stir in the thyme.

Begin layering the lasagna: Noodles, leek mixture, grated zucchini, crumble or two of goat cheese, parmesan cheese, tomato, salt and pepper, etc. Top with more zucchini, goat cheese, and parmesan.

Bake for about 20 minutes until the cheese is browning and the edges of the noodles begin to crisp.

Serves 4 or so as a main course.

Guest Post: Peach Cornmeal Lavender Upside-Down Cake

Our very own gourmet baker, Sabra is here with another stunning guest post. Though fall has officially arrived, there should still be some tasty peaches hanging around, at least in the north. Bake this and pretend it's still summer.


Despite my frequent forays into the world of savory cooking, I always seem to come back to baking desserts. I can’t help myself! If you have been unimpressed by pineapple upside-down cakes in the past, this cake is in an entirely new category. The peaches create a pretty golden pink topping, and the cornmeal provides an interesting texture. The herbal taste of lavender
complements the peaches nicely and will keep everyone guessing about this somewhat surprising ingredient. (Aside: The first time I made this recipe, I was determined to use fresh lavender, which I had a difficult time finding. I ended up borrowing some from a neighbor’s yard). This cake is best made in the middle of summer when the peaches are ripe, and should be served with
vanilla ice cream, if possible. The recipe comes from Martha, whom I have learned to trust completely when it comes to baking desserts. Enjoy!

Peach Cornmeal Lavender Upside-Down Cake

1 stick plus 3 TBS unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
3 medium ripe peaches, cut into wedges with the skins on
1 cup coarse cornmeal or polenta
¾ cup flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 tsp chopped fresh lavender or 1 ½ tsp dried (I’ve made this cake with both and it’s delicious
either way)
1 ¼ tsp coarse salt
3 large eggs
½ tsp vanilla
½ cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat, using a pastry brush to coat the sides with butter as it melts. (Note: using a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet is a must! Otherwise the cake will stick when you try to invert it). Sprinkle ¼ cup sugar evenly over the bottom of the skillet, and cook until the sugar starts to bubble and turn golden brown, about 3 minutes. Arrange the peaches in a circle at edge of skillet, on top of sugar. Arrange the remaining wedges in the center to fill. Reduce the heat to low, and cook until juices are bubbling and peaches begin to soften, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat.

Whisk cornmeal, flour, baking powder, lavender, and salt in a medium bowl. Beat the remaining stick of butter and ¾ cup sugar with a mixer on high speed, until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Reduce speed to medium. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix in the vanilla and cream. Reduce the speed to low, and beat in the cornmeal mixture in 2 portions.

Drop large spoonfuls of batter over the peaches, and spread evenly using a spatula or the back of a wooden spoon. Bake until golden brown and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 22 minutes. Transfer the skillet to a wire rack, and let it stand for 10 minutes. Run a knife or spatula around edge of cake. Next is the inversion of the cake; this part can be tricky. The easiest way to invert the cake is to invert a platter or plate on top of the cake and hold it in place.

Then turn over until the cake is right side up and you can set it down. Tap the bottom of the skillet to release the peaches, and carefully remove skillet. Replace any peach slices on the top of the cake, if needed. Let cool slightly before serving.

Arepa-Style Black Bean Cakes with Poached Egg and Tomatoes

My stand-by arepas recipe plus the nostalgic tug of the Midwest in Autumn, combined to bring you this delicious meal.

Plus, poached eggs. Poached eggs are so good. This might be my ideal meal, nostalgia or no.

Except, nostalgia, yes: Some great pals got married this weekend and it was all the memories, all at once. Just overwhelming, in the most beautiful way.

1 cup milk
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 cups medium grind cornmeal
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 cup grated queso blanco
1 large chopped scallion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 jalapeño or other small hot pepper, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup canned or ready-to-use black beans
4 eggs, poached
chopped tomatoes
hot sauce

Place the milk in a saucepan over medium heat and bring to an almost-boil. Turn off the heat and stir in the butter. Allow to melt. Combine the cornmeal, salt, and cheese in a mixing bowl. Stir in the milk butter, then the scallion, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, and beans.

Allow the mixture to sit for about 15 minutes and thicken-up. Then cook like small, thick pancakes over medium heat on a large oiled skillet.

Top with eggs, tomatoes, and hot sauce.

Serves four.

(For maximum nostalgia exposure, listen while you cook:

)

Late Summer Stir Fry

So I said I didn't really like eggplant. Except in certain preparations. Here's one that gives the slender Japanese version its due. This barbecue-ish sauce is so great with sweet late summer vegetables. Sub in whatever you have on hand.

Marinade

2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon chile garlic sauce
1/2 cup low sodium soy sauce
3 tablespoons water
1/3 cup mirin
4-5 tablespoons brown sugar

Combine the ingredients above in a sauce pan over medium low heat and whisk until the sugar dissolves.

Stir Fry
1 1/2 cups string beans, trimmed and chopped into 1 inch-long pieces
1 carrot, peeled and sliced into thin strips
2 japanese eggplants, chopped into similar shapes as the beans
1/2 small bell pepper, sliced
4 ounces tempeh, sliced thinly

Pour the marinade over the stir fry vegetables and tempeh. Marinate for at least 30 minutes. Then cook all in a wok, or large saute pan, over high heat for about 5 minutes, or until the sauce cooks down a bit and the vegetables are beginning to char.

Serve over rice. Drizzle with about 1-2 tablespoons sesame oil (total, for all servings combined) just before serving. Garnish with cilantro.

Serves 3-4.

Linguine with Corn, Sage, and Morels

I saw this recipe the other day and was reminded of the most delicious meal I ate in the summer of 09 (also known as OMG Summer): a corn risotto with truffle oil from Everyday People Cafe. That was one of those meals where you just taste. Taste. Turn it all off and just taste.

So I set out to recreate that fungal delicious-town. (Fungal, probably not a good word to use in food writing? If it's gross to you, just concentrate on the first part fun!gal). And yeah, it was just as delicious with the sweetest end-of-summer corn and morels a loved one gently picked and dried for me this spring. Morels are expensive, I know. Any other strong-tasting wild mushrooms would work here too. And the sage ties it all together.

1/2 pound linguine
about 6 dried morel mushrooms, hydrated in warm water for about 15 minutes
4 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from about 6 ears of corn
2 cloves garlic, minced
10 sage leaves, sliced thinly crosswise into ribbons
2 tablespoons butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup parmesan cheese, grated

Puree half of the corn in a food processor. Put a large pot of salted water on to boil.

Squeeze the moisture from the now-softened morels, then finely chop them.

Boil the pasta until al dente.

Over medium heat, melt the butter in a heavy, wide-bottom pot. Add the garlic, sage, and morels and cook for about 5 minutes, until very fragrant. Add the corn (both the pureed half and the kernels) and continue cooking for another several minutes, until the corn is cooked through. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in the parmesan cheese.

With tongs, scoop the pasta directly from the water and into the corn sauce. Add more pasta water if you desire a thinner sauce. Stir until the pasta is nicely coated with the sauce.

Serves 4.