Summer Squash and Goat Cheese Pesto

Generally, I'm not a huge fan of yellow squash or zucchini.

These summer squashes appear frequently in a medley menus call "grilled vegetables." "Grilled vegetables" are frustratingly ubiquitous in "vegetarian options" and are a death sentence for delicious. That bland, waterlogged medley can take down an otherwise tasty meal. And at fault for most of that bland wateriness is, generally, zucchini. So summer squash gets a bad rap.

But it can be so good. Just get rid of all that water, add a little salt, and you have something entirely different on your fork. With this as my goal, practically every time I cook with summer squash (baking is another story -- its water can be an asset for moist muffins and the like; more on that Friday!), I wring as much water from it as I can. Then, I love it. But I'll still never order it in a pasta primavera.

Here, it's perfect raw with goat cheese on crunchy toasts.

about 12 ounces zucchini and/or yellow summer squash, ends trimmed, and finely grated (about 2 cups)
coarse salt
1 large clove garlic
1/8 cup olive oil
1/8 cup goat cheese

Place the grated zucchini into a fine mesh strainer, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon or so coarse salt, toss, and let sit for 10-15 minutes.

Meanwhile, mince the garlic, then sprinkle it with a tiny bit more coarse salt. With the flat side of your knife, and using the salt as an abrasive, smash the garlic into a paste.

Once the zucchini has drained for a while, dump it into a clean kitchen towel and squeeze as much moisture out as you possibly can.

Combine the zucchini and garlic paste with the olive oil and goat cheese. With a fork, mash the goat cheese into the zucchini mixture until well blended.

Serve on toast points, with pasta, with eggs, in a sandwich, on tiny puff pastry cut outs, however you like!

Serves six to eight as an appetizer.

[Inspired by.]