
I had a problem with pasta salad. I liked it in theory, but I didn't like it in
really. So I this is me, trying to like pasta salad. A recipe in problems.
Problem: Dairy.
Solution: I love mayonnaise, and I love cheese. But I don't love it in pasta salad. Mayonnaise pasta: that's something other. And cheese in pasta salad, well that's whatever. If anything I might cube it small and use a dry cheese, but really, I just don't think it belongs.
Problem: Too many or too few flavors.
Solution: I chose harmonizing herbs but kept the emphasis on one (basil). I also chose only a few vegetables to chop & add, but I made sure they had strong, balanced flavors.
Problem: Sauce/dressing that never sticks to the pasta.
Solution: I picked pasta that holds sauce well. Second, I made a sauce with some thickness, some heft. Third, I made sure not to wash the pasta after cooking so the starch could help bind.
Problem: Wanting a pesto-y sauce that could distinguish itself from pesto and work for a cold, bright pasta salad.
Solution: Pesto, adjusted. I chose several bright herbs for the puree and skipped the thickening nuts and cheese. I also added some vinegar and capers for some tanginess, and extra water to thin the sauce out.
Problem: Going raw, without going rough and with flavor.
Solution: Raw vegetables in pasta salad are requisite. It is a salad afterall. But they're often too contrasty in texture or flavor. Think chunk of carrot. Too-sharp onion. And they tend not to absorb the flavor of the sauce the way the pasta does, making them like pauses in the dish, separate, suspended. So, I chopped these vegetables up really thin, but kind of long. I wanted them crunchy and present, but also permeable and integrated. I used a microplane with teeth (dentata?) for the carrots, and sliced the fennel and shallots very thinly. I also tossed the vegetables into the sauce and let them sit while the pasta cooked, so they had a head start on absorption. And finally, I spooned the cooked pasta into the saucy vegetables while it was still hot and let it cool slowly on the counter, so the tender threads of the raw veggies cooked
just barely.
All in all, this was a good pasta salad. I'd recommend spritzing and tossing it with some additional water right before you serve it.
1 pound pasta
1/2 cup fresh basil
1/4 cup fresh parsley
1/4 cup chives
fronds from one bulb fennel
2 tablespoons capers
2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup water plus more
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1/4 - 1/2 cup olive oil
1 fennel bulb, sliced thinly
1 carrot, peeled and sliced thinly
2 shallots, sliced thinly
salt + pepper
Cook the pasta until just-almost-done.
Meanwhile, drop ingredients 2 through 7 into a food processor. With the machine running, pour in 1/4 cup water and the vinegar, followed by the olive oil, until a thin but not-runny sauce has formed. Pour this into the bottom of a large mixing bowl. Toss in the chopped vegetables and let them sit while the pasta finishes cooking. Spoon in the cooked pasta, straight from its cooking water. Toss and season to taste. Allow the salad to come to room temperature on the counter, then refrigerate.