Guest Post: Apple Sage Cobbler

Friends, this is Kot's last guest post (for the time being, we hope). It's been wonderful! Thanks Kot!

Now let's all give a[n internet] round of applause to Kot for these terrific contributions to our collective Good Housekeeping/Graham Cracker box recipe file.


I do a lot of complaining about the Joy of Cooking, but I have to admit--I actually use it quite often, especially lately. After I got over the fact that it's totally not something I'd use to plan meals and started considering it more as a resource for building far more interesting recipes, I warmed up to it. It's like the starter drug for cooking.

There's also something mildly comforting about the JoC. It's what your mom had in the kitchen next to do-it-yourself binders stuffed with recipes she cut out of Good Housekeeping and the backs of graham cracker boxes and glued to copier paper. The simple cover; the red circle; the all-lowercase, serif font used on those fantastic three letters. Like I said, I'm really feeling warmer here.

Last week was a challenging one. Not just for me, but for some close friends as well. I initially wanted to do something savvy, fun, and ambitious for my last guest post (bruising lemongrass sounded so cool!), but when it came down to Sunday evening (baking day for the gainfully employed and over-booked) all I wanted was something warm and familiar.

We had also just picked up our produce CSA box for the week and had another bag full of apples. Those who know me well know that I have a serious physical aversion to apples. It's happened to me as for as long as I can remember: the sound (ugh) of someone biting into an apple (ergh) and chewing it (argh) gives me goosebumps, like squeaky chalk on a chalkboard for normal people. Unlike squeaky chalk, though, the apple sound also makes me--you're going to love this--start salivating voraciously. Like one of this guy's test subjects. It even happens when I think about the sound. Right now, for example. I'm shivering and salivating like mad.

So I don't eat (or think about) raw apples. It's pretty physically uncomfortable for me. But baked apples--like those in apple cobbler--are totally tolerable. And what's more comforting than cobbler? (And how else am I going to get rid of these apples??)

I consulted the JoC for a basic cobbler recipe to better understand what I was getting myself into. Cobbler seems like a pretty traditional baked good, and I'm not exactly known for being traditional with my baking, so I felt a little out of my league. I ended up lifting the cobbler dough recipe right out of the "biscuits" section (but added lemon zest, so it's still unique, right?).

Sage, meanwhile, seemed like the perfect pairing. A nice complement, taste-wise, and kind of a warm and comforting herb, as well.

As you'll see in the recipe, I made a sage-infused butter and tossed the apples in it. I strained the sage out before doing the apples, which I wouldn't do next time. I think this would have been really tasty with the sage baked right in.

APPLE SAGE COBBLER

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F and have ready an (ungreased) 8x8 inch glass baking dish.

Begin by preparing the dough that you'll put either above (my choice) or below (seems interesting) the fruit.

Sour cream cobbler biscuit dough

1 3/4 c all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
4 tbsp chilled unsalted butter
1/2 c sour cream
1/4 c heavy whipping cream
1 1/2 - 2 tbsp lemon zest

In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda.

Using two knives, cut-in the butter, one tablespoon at a time. The dough should be a bit crumbly.

Whisk together the sour cream, heavy cream, and lemon zest.

Make a well in the center of the bowl. Pour the sour cream mixture into the well and stir just until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl (note: this actually never happened for me--everything just got crumbly).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 8 to 10 times. Roll (or, using your fingers, press) the dough until it's about 1/4 of an inch thick.

Then, turn to the fruit.

Sage apple mixture

6-8 medium apples, sliced
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp chopped fresh sage

Melt the butter in a small saucepan, with the sage, over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and use a fork to mix until the brown sugar seems evenly mixed with the butter. When the butter starts to bubble, turn the heat down to low. Simmer for 4-5 minutes to infuse the butter with the sage. Strain the butter to remove the sage and transfer to a large frying pan on medium heat.

Toss the apples in the butter mixture over the heat for 5-6 minutes, then take the pan off the heat and let sit for 2-3 minutes.

Transfer the apples to the glass baking pan and drizzle the butter mixture over them, saving around 1/2 tbsp. Place the cobbler dough on top of the apples and cut it to fit, if needed. Cut 3 small steam vents into the dough.

Using a spoon (or a fancy cooking brush thing if you have one!), brush the remaining butter mixture on top of the dough. Sprinkle 2-4 tsp of sugar on top.

Bake until the top is golden brown and the apple juices have thickened slightly--it only took about 30 minutes for me. Let the cobbler cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Serve with fresh whipped cream (you should have some heavy whipping cream left over from the dough!):

1/2 c heavy whipping cream
2 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 - 1 tbsp confectioners' sugar

Using an electric mixer, beat the whipping cream, vanilla, and confectioners' sugar until it makes stiff peaks.

Risotto with Lacinato Kale and Ricotta

When I set out to make this, I wasn't sure if I should cook the kale separately from the risotto, then add everything together at the end, or if I should just cook everything together from the start. I went with the one-pot, everything-together method, and I'm glad I did. Though it was a bit awkward to stir in the beginning, the kale cooked beautifully alongside the rice. The dish was cohesive and rustic. It was lovely.

3 tablespoons butter or oil (or a mixture of both)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon Spanish paprika
1 bunch lacinato kale, tough stems cut away, and leaves chopped
salt and pepper
1 1/2 cups arborio rice
4-6 cups vegetable stock, at room temperature or warmed
ricotta cheese (omit for vegan version)

Over medium heat, melt the butter and/or heat the oil in a large, heavy bottom pot. Add the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes, and paprika and cook until the onion softens. Add the kale, a little salt and pepper, and continue cooking for a few minutes, as the kale begins to wilt. Pour in the rice and continue cooking, stirring, for another few minutes.

Begin adding stock, one ladleful at a time, stirring all the while. Each time, stir until the mixture thickens and most of the liquid has been absorbed, then add more stock. Do this for about 20-30 minutes, until the rice is tender, but slightly al dente, and the mixture is thick and creamy. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary.

Serve with a scoop of fresh ricotta cheese.

Serves 4-6.

New $upport for Local Food

Did you catch Corby Kummer's recent Atlantic article (accompanying video above) on Walmart's move toward locally sourced products? It begins to break down Walmart-as-easy-enemy and raises questions about what top-down, profit-driven good could be done for the ground-up local food movement.

Just after reading the Atlantic article, I came across this article my friend Jeff wrote for True/Slant on venture captitalists who will meet with local and organic farmers in Chicago Thursday.

These articles complicate the positions of both local food and big agro.

The anti-big agro argument has addressed the mismatch between the forms of industrial production and the ways nature grows food. Fordist standardization is just not the way food grows best. So, I'm glad to see that some big capital is being pushed into in local food, which prizes diverse, sustainable agriculture. And I hope this means, in turn, that some capital will be pushed away from the giant, troubling, industrial monocultures of the last century.

But I can't help but wonder how local food will bend to meet the will of this new money stream. In the Atlantic article, heirloom varieties weren't to be found among Walmart's local produce selections. And in the True/Slant piece, the venture capitalists tout "value added business" as one way to increase local profitability. Canning preserves sounds innocent enough, but you have to remember that value added business is what put corn components into practically everything we, as a country, eat.

So, I'm open to these new opportunities for local food, but wary too. I believe our best food should be available to everyone, not just the moneyed yuppie set. And perhaps these new, giant, players will help democratize and spread the movement. But we should be mindful of what that democratizing spread looks like, how it is formed, what kind of labor produces it, and what it does to the food we eat.

Celery Root Gnocchi in a Tomato White Wine Sauce

Remember that earthy gnocchi I made a couple weeks ago? Well, I didn't finish it. I froze some of the uncooked gnocchi. Then, the other night, I cooked them up with this simple sauce for a quick, hearty dinner on a rushed evening.

1 pound potato, peeled and quartered
1 pound celery root, peeled and quartered
salt, pepper
about 1 cup flour

2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium red onion, diced
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/3 cup white wine
1 (28 ounce) can tomatoes, drained and chopped
salt
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

First, a gnocchi reminder:
Boil the potato and celery root until tender. With a fork, finely mash both in a large mixing bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste, and about 1/2 cup of the flour. Stir to combine.

Turn the mixture out onto a floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, until the mixture begins to hold its shape. Don't overwork it. Cut the dough into six pieces. Roll each piece out into a long log, about 1 inch thick (if a log won't form, you may need to add more flour). Cut the logs into 3/4 inch-long pieces. Roll each of these pieces down the tines of a fork, and set aside.

To freeze, lay the uncooked gnocchi out on a cookie sheet and place in the freezer until they harden. Then, put the gnocchi in freezer bags and store until you're ready to cook.

To cook, toss the [frozen] gnocchi into a large pot of salted, boiling water. After a minute or so of floating at the top, the gnocchi are done.

And for the sauce:
In a wide pot over a medium-low flame, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and red pepper flakes and cook until the onions soften, about five minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for a minute more, then pour in the wine. Turn the heat up to medium and let the wine bubble for a couple minutes, then add the tomatoes and some salt.

Cook until the tomatoes begin to break down, 15 minutes or so. Puree the sauce for a finer texture, if desired, and garnish with parsley.

Sweet and Spicy Cauliflower

A few days ago, I spied this recipe and, despite my ketchup concerns, was quite charmed. I wanted to make it, but not to batter it, and not to fry it. I did that, basically. And it was good.

1 head cauliflower
1/2 cup ketchup (a not-cornsyrup kind. and I promise the final dish won't taste like ketchup)
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons real maple syrup
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon lemon juice
two teaspoons sweet paprika
several good twists freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon neutral oil
1/2 large onion, finely chopped
1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped
3-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
cilantro for garnish

Steam the cauliflower until just, almost cooked. Then, plunge it in cold water to stop the cooking.

Whisk together the ketchup, soy sauce, maple syrup, water, lemon juice, paprika, and pepper. For a spicier sauce, add a teaspoon or more red pepper flakes. Set aside.

In a wok or large saute pan over a medium flame, heat the oil. Add the onion and jalapeño and cook until just beginning to soften (about two minutes). Add the garlic and ginger and continue cooking for another minute.

Pour the sauce into the pan with the vegetables and cook for a minute or so more, stirring to combine. Drain the cauliflower, then add it to the sauce, stir to coat, and cook until heated through.

Garnish with cilantro. Serve over rice.

Serves 3-4.

Guest Post: Lentil Loaf

Though today's guest poster, Colleen, and I grew up in the same town, I don't think we met until sometime after highschool. I'm not sure I can pinpoint the exact moment, but I keep returning to the grainy memory of a sing-along in a mutual friend's basement. Whether we met then, or in another moment, I've always been glad to catch up with Colleen when we've both been home for the Holidays. And now that I know she's a talented cook, I'm glad we can catch up via this guest post!

I've been seeing a lot of recipes for meat-substitutes made with lentils lately: meatballs, burgers, and now, this loaf recipe. I think I'll take some inspiration from Colleen and experiment more with those lovely legumes.


This warm, protein filled lentil loaf is a great addition to anyone’s winter weekend meal regimen. Once you taste this Italian-style casserole, it will become evident that the multiple, time consuming steps are worth every minute.

I made a few adjustments to this recipe, mainly because of what I did and did not have on hand, both recipes are equally yummy. I imagine a southwestern twist on this recipe would also be great. Just by exchanging the herbs, sauce and cheese, you are able to transform this meal into a different dish all together.

I initially tested this recipe out on my fiancé, who is an omnivore and somewhat of a picky vegetarian-food eater. His double thumbs up were followed by a very quick and quiet dinner. This dish is a must when winter is dragging out too long and you need some comforting food to warm you up.

Lentil Loaf
Adapted from Everyday Italian

1 cup green lentils
1 vegetable bouillon cube
1 cup medium brown rice
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, diced
1 pinch of red pepper flakes
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 medium carrots, shredded
4 cups fresh spinach (or 10oz of frozen)
1 cup corn, frozen or fresh
½ cup of fresh basil
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup marinara sauce, preferably homemade
1 tablespoon of Kosher salt
½ tablespoon of black pepper
1 ½ cup of diced whole milk mozzarella, divided
½ cup of shredded parmesan cheese, divided
1 tomato, sliced

Spread 1 tablespoon of the oil over a 10 by 4½ by 3-inch loaf pan.

Place lentils in a pot with cold water and bring to a boil. Drain, rinse and set aside.

Bring 3 cups of water and bouillon cube to a boil and add rice. Cook rice 10 minutes and add lentils. Cover and turn the heat down to low. Simmer mixture for 30 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

In a large skillet add 1 tablespoon of oil. Add onion and cook about 5 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and garlic cook one minute. Add carrots and cook a few more minutes before adding the spinach. Cover until spinach wilts slightly, about 5 minutes.

When the rice and lentils are cooked trough, add corn, basil, oregano, eggs, marinara sauce, and salt and pepper to the mixture, mix together. Then add one cup of mozzarella, ¼ cup of parmesan and the spinach mixture, mix until incorporated.

Pour mixture in to the prepared pan and top with sliced tomatoes, pieces of fresh basil and the rest of the mozzarella and parmesan cheese.

Cook for 45 minutes. Cool 15 minutes before cutting and serving.

Guest Post: Pulaski Day Menu

On Monday, Chicago celebrated Pulaski Day. Pulaski's birthday follows on Saturday. If you don't know about Casimir/Kazimierz Pulaski, his compelling story is worth a read. Soldier of fortune, saver of George Washington's life, all-around Revolutionary war hero, honorary citizen of the United States. And let's not forget, member of the Polish nobility.

In honor of Pulaski and his day, our old pal Joe is back with a multi-part Polish feast. Though it can be kind of heavy, I always associate Polish food with the coming of Spring--ever since the epic Easter at my cousin Danny's apartment, after which I declared my intention to eat all things in pierogi form.

That didn't really pan out, but my enthusiasm for Polish fare has not diminished. Thanks so much to Joe for this post. Let's all raise a pierogi for Pulaski this weekend.

--

To celebrate Pulaski day here’s my meatless menu, although I did make sausages on the side. So eat, drink, and loosen your belt as this serves at least 6 to 8 people. I recommend lots of fine Pilsner to wash it down.

Goat cheese and potato pierogies with braised red cabbage
Roasted redskins with sauerkraut
Potato pancakes with spiced apple sauce


Goat cheese and potato pierogies with braised red cabbage:
Thanks to cooks.com for the dough recipe.
3 ½ cups all purpose flour
3 eggs
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 cup water

Mix ingredients into large bowl reserving ½ c water. Work gradually til it starts to come together. Turn onto a well floured surface and kneed gently, drop that baby on the board a few times but be don’t be cruel, you want nice pliable dough. Wrap in plastic and let rest 20 minutes.

When you are ready to fill them turn the dough out on a well floured board and roll out roughly to the thickness of pie dough. I had a little trouble at first as it wanted to shrink on me. Just make sure to keep the board well floured. I used a large mouthed coffee mug to cut circles but you can use whatever shape you want as long as it's round.

Filling:
4 medium baking potatoes, peeled
4 ounces goat cheese (I used herbed)
4 tablespoons sour cream
Salt and pepper to taste

Boil potatoes til just cooked through, drain and let cool 15-20 minutes. Mash them well and mix with other ingredients. Don’t be afraid to over season slightly as the dough is boiled and sautéed and will lose some flavor on its own.

Spoon a tb or so of the filling into the center of the dough circle and fold over into a half moon shape, pressing the edges down with your fingers. The dough should be moist enough to seal, but if not use a little water. Drop into rapidly boiling salted water one at a time stirring the water so they don’t stick to the bottom. When they float to the top remove with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel to dry. Mine turned out rather rustic looking as if my Polish Grandma made them. Alright I don’t have a Polish Grandma but if I did they would probably looked like hers. Use a ravioli press if you want a more uniform shape.

Right before serving saute the pierogies in oil and butter. Serve over the braised cabbage with sour cream on the side.

Braised Red Cabbage:
1 head cabbage thinly sliced
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Large pinch brown sugar
2 cups water

In medium pot saute cabbage with a tb or so of vegetable oil til slightly wilted. Deglaze with wine and cook down about halfway. Add remaining ingredients, reduce heat to low and cover. Cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.


Roasted Red Skins with Sauerkraut:
1 pound red skin potatoes washed and quartered
¾ pound sauerkraut
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons Olive oil

Preheat oven to 375. Mix all ingredients together and place in oven proof casserole dish. Roast 45 minutes until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a knife. Toss with kraut and crank the oven up to broil. When the kraut is heated through and nicely brown in a few spots, it's ready.


Potato pancakes with spiced apple sauce:
3 medium potatoes washed, peeled, and finely grated
3 tablespoons flour
1 egg
2 cups apple sauce
2 tablespoon dark rum
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch brown sugar

Heat pan or griddle to medium high heat. Combine potatoes, flour and egg in bowl. In sauce pan combine apple sauce and spices. Place potatoes on griddle in a thin layer with a little oil, just like making hash browns. Turn when nicely browned on the side. When apple sauce is bubbling add rum and flame to satisfy your pyro tendencies and to burn off the alcohol. Spoon over the top of pancakes and serve.